Finger Lakes Hybrid Innovation and Wine Making Diversity
Finger Lakes French-American Hybrid Grapes: Resilience and Innovation
French-American Hybrid grapes, resulting from the crossbreeding of European vinifera with other American grape varieties, were developed with the aim of creating robust grapes resistant to insects, diseases, rot, mildew, and cold temperatures. This initiative emerged in response to the devastation of many European vineyards in the late 1800s as the result of phylloxera. Today, the Finger Lakes actively produces many of these hybrid grapes.
For over a century, the Finger Lakes’ own Cornell University, located in Ithaca, has been actively involved in grape breeding, releasing nearly 60 grape varieties adapted to cool climates and contributing significantly to the development of hybrid grapes.
While some may question the worthiness of hybrids compared to vinifera, regions like the Finger Lakes and Michigan have succeeded in crafting quality wines by embracing them. One of the notable and widely grown hybrids in the Finger Lakes is Vignoles. Known for its versatility, it can be crafted into a dry or off-dry white wine, but it truly shines when produced as a sweet late harvest or ice wine. Exploring Vignoles and other widely produced hybrid wines in the region is highly recommended to fully appreciate the diversity of the Finger Lakes wine offerings.
To learn more about the Finger Lakes terroir that made hybrids so popular in early Finger Lakes winemaking read Journey into Finger Lakes Terroir: The Impact oF Three Lakes
Some common hybrids to try are:
White: Vignoles, Cayuga White, Seyval Blanc, Traminette, Vidal Blanc
Red: Baco Noir, Chambourcin
Cornell University, Ithaca New York
Other Interesting Wines and Styles
The Finger Lakes is a region that thrives on diversity. Beyond the usual vinifera grapes crafted in traditional ways, the Finger Lakes pushes boundaries, experimenting with techniques and embracing lesser-known grape varieties. Exploring tasting rooms offers the opportunity to try unique and uncommon wines not found everywhere. Dry Rosé has become a regional staple, and most wineries offer at least one. Pétillant Naturel (Pét-Nat) sparkling wines are becoming just as popular as sparkling wines made in the traditional method. Lesser-known varieties like Grüner Veltliner, Lemburger (Blaufränkisch), and Gamay Noir are spread across the region. Additionally, more wineries are venturing into Syrah and Pinot Blanc production, showcasing the growing diversity of the area.
Dry Rosé
The surge in popularity of Dry Rosé over the last decade has been wholeheartedly embraced by the Finger Lakes. Each spring and early summer, nearly every winery unveils its own rendition, with some becoming so sought after that they sell out within weeks. A diverse array of grapes, including Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Lemburger (Blaufränkisch), Syrah and even Saperavi, are utilized in crafting these Dry Rosés. Exploring the various varieties reveals the distinct expression each grape brings to this style.
For enthusiasts of Provence-style Dry Rosé, many Finger Lakes wineries share similarities, featuring a dry profile, a delicate soft pink hue, light body, medium acidity, and notes of strawberry, watermelon, light florals, and minerality. Perfect for sipping on a warm day on its own or complementing a summer barbecue with hamburgers, these wines are a delightful experience. For devoted Dry Rosé lovers, the region hosts the annual Rosé Soirée, where attendees clad in pink gather to sample the finest Dry Rosés the region has to offer.
Navigating through the multitude of fantastic Dry Rosés in the Finger Lakes can be quite a task, given the abundance of excellent options. It's almost a struggle to find one you won't enjoy.
Here's a list of some of the wineries that consistently produce outstanding Dry Rosés each year:
Fox Run Vineyards - Seneca
Standing Stone Vineyards - Seneca
Zugibe Vineyards - Seneca
Lamoreaux Landing Wine Cellars - Seneca
Osmote - Seneca
Billsboro Winery - Seneca
Red Tail Ridge Winery - Seneca
Point of the Bluff Vineyards - Keuka
Weis Vineyards - Keuka
Sheldrake Point Winery - Cayuga
Thirsty Owl Wine Company - Cayuga
Pétillant Naturel (Pét-Nat)
In the Finger Lakes, winemakers are diving into the trendy world of Pétillant Naturel (Pét-Nat), experimenting with this sparkling wine style. This method is the original technique for crafting sparkling wine, dating back to the 16th century. It differs from the Méthode Champenoise “traditional method” used for making Champagne, where secondary fermentation occurs in the bottle. Instead, Pét-Nat captures its bubbles by bottling before the initial fermentation is complete. This method is referred to as Méthode Ancestrale. This unique process results in light effervescent fizz, sometimes accompanied by a touch of sweetness and haziness from unfiltered yeast particles. Sealed with a metal crown cap rather than a cork, Finger Lakes Pét-Nat offers a rustic, funky and cost effective alternative to classic Champagne styles. The oldest approach to creating sparkling wine is now beloved and growing in popularity in the Finger Lakes.
If you are interested in learning more about historic wines and traditional wine making methods read Georgian Grape Varieties reshaping the Finger Lakes - Saperavi and Rkatsiteli
Here are some wineries where Pét-Nat can often be found:
Berry Family Cellars (available for purchase online)
Osmote - Seneca
Bloomer Creek Vineyard - Seneca
Red Tail Ridge Winery - Seneca
Keuka Lake Vineyards - Keuka
Living Roots - Keuka
Six Eighty Cellars - Cayuga
Button Wood Grove Winery - Cayuga
Goose Watch Winery
Other Sparkling Wine
As mentioned earlier, diversity is the key when discussing Finger Lakes wines, and this holds true for Finger Lakes sparkling wines. In addition to Pét-Nat, the Finger Lakes employs various methods to produce sparkling wine, including Méthode Champenoise ("Traditional Method"), Tank Method ("Charmat Method"), and the Transfer Method. This range of techniques results in a diverse array of sparkling wines, with some resembling French Champagne and others akin to Italian Prosecco. The grape selection is equally varied, featuring Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Riesling, Gewürztraminer, and hybrids like Cayuga White. Additionally, there are excellent sparkling Rosés crafted from various grapes such as Cabernet Franc and Lemburger. This ensures that all sparkling wine lovers will find one that they enjoy.
Some wineries with sparkling wines to try on a visit would be:
Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard - Seneca
Damiani Wine Cellars - Seneca
Fox Run Vineyards - Seneca
Lamoreaux Landing Wine Cellars - Seneca
Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery - Keuka
Pleasant Valley Wine Company - Keuka
Sheldrake Point Winery - Cayuga
Goose Watch Winery - Cayuga
Knapp Winery - Cayuga
Dessert and Sweet Wines
While the Finger Lakes is celebrated for its stellar production of world-class dry wines, there's a diverse range of sweet wine styles, spanning from off-dry to intensely sweet dessert wines, crafted through various methods. When executed skillfully, sweet wines can achieve a full-bodied and well-balanced profile. Because of the more labor-intensive processes to produce and the relatively low quantities made, these styles of wine tend to be more expensive than other table wines. Many wineries offer these in 375 mL bottles (half size).
Wineries assist consumers in understanding a wine's sweetness level by using terms such as "Late Harvest" or "Ice Wine." Additionally, they may provide information on Residual Sugar (RS) either on the tasting sheet or directly on the wine bottle.
Late Harvest Wines
A product of grapes left to ripen on the vine for an extended period, are typically harvested around the end of November. The prolonged ripening process leads to concentrated flavor and sugar, resulting in sweeter and fuller-bodied wines. Riesling, with its naturally high acidity, is a common grape choice for this style, providing a balance to residual sugar.
Ice Wine
Another sweet wine variety, involves allowing grapes to freeze on the vine before harvesting in December or January. The frozen grapes are pressed to extract a concentrated juice, preserving natural sweetness. While dependency on weather conditions limits annual production, ice wines are highly desirable when available, and are relatively expensive. Common grapes used for ice wine in the Finger Lakes include Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Vidal Blanc, and Vignoles.
Botrytis/Noble Rot
Botrytis, also known as Noble Rot, is a key element in crafting exquisite sweet dessert wines, drawing inspiration from the renowned Bordeaux Sauternes. This method involves vines exposed to misty morning fogs and sunny afternoons, fostering a fungus that evaporates water within the grapes, concentrating flavors and sugars. Botrytis style dessert wines exhibit a signature honey flavor and a high level of sweetness, making them ideal for after-dinner or dessert consumption.
Fortified Wines like Port
Fortified wines like Port, though less common in the Finger Lakes region, are created by adding distilled grape spirit midway through the fermentation process. This process stops fermentation, leaving residual sugar, and boosts alcohol content. Fox Run Vineyards is one of the few producers in the region crafting fortified wines, offering a unique touch to the diverse array of Finger Lakes wines.
Where to try sweet and dessert wines:
Boundary Breaks Vineyard - Seneca
Red Newt Cellars - Seneca
Fox Run Vineyards - Seneca
Wagner Vineyards - Seneca
Idol Ridge Winery - Seneca
Weis Vineyards - Keuka
Heron Hill Winery - Keuka
Sheldrake Point Winery - Cayuga