Traverse City Wine Coast

The Traverse City Wine Coast, situated on the northwestern part of Michigan's Lower Peninsula, celebrates a rich history and vibrant viticultural landscape. Along the southern shore of the west end of Grand Traverse Bay, Traverse City was founded in 1847 and derives its name from the bay itself. Originally a timber town, it evolved into the renowned "Cherry Capital of the World," because of the large amount of cherry tree orchards in the area. The proximity to Lake Michigan has fostered an ideal environment not only for cherry tree orchards but also for cultivating high-quality European wine grapes.

Traverse City has emerged as a premier tourist destination in Michigan, attracting visitors with its natural beauty and many activities. From the scenic Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore to the annual National Cherry Festival, from Traverse City Lighthouses to pristine beaches perfect for swimming, boating, and fishing, the area offers an abundance of attractions. Moreover, with its vibrant wine country, Traverse City stands out as one of the top tourist destinations in the state. Embracing the winter season, the city offers activities such as skiing, snowboarding, snowshoeing, and snowmobiling, transforming into a captivating winter wonderland for visitors year-round.

Strategically located at the center point of two of Michigan's American Viticultural Areas (AVAs), namely Leelanau Peninsula and Old Mission Peninsula, Traverse City serves as an ideal base for exploring both regions. These peninsulas have proven to be conducive to vineyard cultivation, yielding high-quality cool-climate wine varieties like Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Lemberger (Blaufränkisch), and various French-American hybrids. Benefiting from the temperate moderation of Lake Michigan and the distinctive microclimate shaped by Grand Traverse Bay, the vineyards in these regions produce exceptional wines.

Ideally positioned at the 45th parallel of longitude, the Traverse City Wine Coast finds itself at the halfway mark between the equator and the North Pole, a position coveted by renowned wine-growing regions worldwide. From France's prestigious Rhone Valley, Burgundy, and Bordeaux to Italy's acclaimed Piedmont and Washington's esteemed Willamette Valley, regions along this latitude have consistently produced exceptional wines. At this latitude, each location experiences the same angle of the sun and length of day, creating optimal conditions for grape cultivation and ripening. In addition to its favorable latitude and lake-influenced microclimates, the soil composition in Traverse City's wine regions is diverse and rich. Glacial deposits overlay bedrock formations of granite and limestone, resulting in soils with varied textures, including sandy loam, clay pockets, and rocky deposits. These mineral-rich soils, combined with their sandy and acidic nature, provide an excellent foundation for grape cultivation, further enhancing the quality of wines produced in the Traverse City Wine Coast region.

Best Time of Year to Visit the Traverse City Wine Coast

Spring (April to May):

Weather: Average High/Low: April - 53°F / 32°F; May - 65°F / 43°F
Rainfall: April - 9 days; May - 8 days
Description: Traverse City welcomes spring with milder temperatures, blossoming flowers, and budding vineyards. It's an ideal time for a tranquil winery visit, with fewer crowds and the landscape bursting into life.

Summer (June to August):

Weather: Average High/Low: June - 75°F / 54°F; July - 80°F / 60°F; August - 78°F / 59°F
Rainfall: June - 7 days; July - 6 days; August - 8 days
Description: Traverse City shines during the summer months, with warm temperatures and abundant sunshine. It's the peak season for winery visits, offering vibrant outdoor tastings and bustling vineyard tours.

Fall (September to November):

Weather: Average High/Low: September - 72°F / 52°F; October - 57°F / 41°F; November - 45°F / 31°F
Rainfall: September - 8 days; October - 12 days; November - 11 days
Description: Fall paints Traverse City with stunning hues of red, orange, and gold as the foliage transforms. Wineries come alive with harvest festivities, making it an exciting time to explore the wine region.

Winter (December to February):

Weather: Average High/Low: December - 33°F / 23°F; January - 28°F / 16°F; February - 29°F / 15°F
Rainfall: December - 13 days; January - 12 days; February - 10 days
Description: Traverse City winters offer a cozy retreat for wine enthusiasts, with indoor tastings by crackling fireplaces or snowshoeing through the vineyards. While cold, it's a serene time to experience the region's charm, especially for those who enjoy winter activities.

Exploring the Leelanau Peninsula Wine Trail

Situated between Lake Michigan and the smaller Grand Traverse Bay, the Leelanau Peninsula stretches approximately 30 miles in length, with a width of about 20 miles at its base. Often likened to the "little finger" of Michigan's mitten-shaped lower peninsula, this region gained recognition as the second Michigan American Viticultural Area (AVA) in 1982.

Benefiting from a array of microclimates shaped by the surrounding bodies of water – Lake Michigan, Grand Traverse Bay, and Lake Leelanau – the peninsula enjoys moderated temperatures conducive to grape cultivation. Sandy loam soils prevail in its vineyards, offering excellent drainage and facilitating deep root growth for the vines.

Home to more than 25 wineries, the Leelanau Peninsula wine trails offer a diverse selection of wine and experiences. Unlike the more compact layout of wineries on the Old Mission Peninsula, those on the Leelanau Peninsula are spread out, organized into three distinct wine loops: the Sleeping Bear Loop, the Northern Peninsula Loop, and the Grand Traverse Bay Loop.

45 Degrees North Winery Leelanau Peninsula Wine Trail — 45 Degrees North Winery Leelanau Peninsula

The Leelanau Peninsula Wine Trail Region is Geographically Divided into Three Loops:

Sleeping Bear Loop: This loop spans from the western shores of Lake Leelanau across to Glen Arbor and north to the village of Lake Leelanau, featuring wineries such as:

Amoritas Vineyards, Bel Lago Vineyard & Winery, Boathouse Vineyards, Chateau Fontaine, French Valley Vineyard, and Good Harbor Vineyards

Northern Loop: Stretching from Leland across to Suttons Bay and north to Omena, this loop is home to wineries including:

45 North Vineyard & Winery, Aurora Cellars, Dune Bird Winery, Leelanau Cellars, Silver Leaf Vineyard & Winery, and Verterra Winery

Grand Traverse Bay Loop: Traversing from Suttons Bay south along the shores of West Bay down to the west side of Traverse City, this loop features esteemed wineries like:

Black Star Farms, Brengman Brothers, Ciccone Vineyard & Winery, Mawby Sparkling & BigLittle Wines, Rove Estate, Shady Lane Cellars, and Two K Farms

Read the History of Wine Making in Michigan: Exploring Michigan's Viticultural Landscape and Wine Making History

Pioneers of Leelanau Peninsula Wine: Bernie Rink and Larry Mawby

Bernie Rink and the Legacy of Boskydel Vineyard

Bernie Rink, a man of quiet determination and unwavering passion for winemaking, left an indelible mark on the Michigan wine industry through his pioneering efforts with Boskydel Vineyard. Established in 1965, Boskydel Vineyard was the first commercial winery on the Leelanau Peninsula, a testament to Rink's vision and tenacity.

Born and raised on a vineyard and vegetable farm in northern Ohio, Rink's journey into winemaking began with a chance encounter with a book on American winemaking during his tenure as the library director at Northwestern Michigan College. Inspired by the possibilities, Rink planted a small test plot of French-American hybrid grape varieties on the Leelanau Peninsula, setting the stage for what would become Boskydel Vineyard.

Despite facing skepticism and challenges, Rink persevered, expanding his test plot to 16 acres of wine grapes by 1970 and officially launching commercial operations. His dedication to experimentation and meticulous attention to detail resulted in the cultivation of hybrid varietals like Vignoles, De Chaunac, Soleil Blanc, Seyval Blanc, and Frontenac, showcasing the region's potential for winemaking.

Boskydel Vineyard became more than just a winery; it was a family endeavor rooted in tradition and hard work. Rink's five sons played integral roles in the vineyard, from pruning and harvesting to bottling and serving guests in the cozy tasting room positioned above South Lake Leelanau.

Known for his no-nonsense demeanor, Rink earned a reputation as a curmudgeon, albeit a beloved one. His small tasting room, amidst the rolling hills, welcomed visitors seeking a taste of Boskydel Vineyard's renowned wines. However, Rink remained steadfast in his refusal to accommodate large groups or buses, preferring to maintain an intimate and authentic experience for all who ventured to his vineyard.

Although Boskydel Vineyard closed its doors in 2017, Bernie Rink's legacy lives on in the Michigan wine industry. His pioneering spirit and unwavering dedication paved the way for future winemakers, inspiring the establishment of wineries like Mawby Vineyards, Good Harbor Vineyards, and Leelanau Cellars. As the sun sets over the vineyard hills, Bernie Rink's influence continues to echo through the vines, a testament to the enduring legacy of Boskydel Vineyard.

Sparkling Dreams: The Journey of Larry Mawby and MAWBY Vineyards

In the rolling hills of Leelanau, a legacy was born with the establishment of MAWBY Vineyards and Winery in 1973. For Larry Mawby, the journey into winemaking was a culmination of family tradition, inspiration, and a relentless pursuit of excellence.

Growing up amidst the orchards of western Michigan, Larry Mawby's roots in fruit growing ran deep. With a family history spanning generations, the Mawby name was synonymous with quality and innovation in the agricultural world. However, it was an encounter with Bernie Rink of Boskydel Vineyard that ignited Larry's passion for winemaking.

Inspired by Rink's pioneering efforts in grape cultivation, Larry embarked on a journey of discovery, spending countless hours with Rink discussing grape varieties and winemaking techniques. In 1973, armed with newfound knowledge and determination, Larry planted approximately 20 different grape varieties on his newly acquired land, where the MAWBY and BigLittle tasting rooms stand today.

As the vines took root and flourished under Larry's careful stewardship, MAWBY Vineyards began to take shape. In 1978, Larry produced his first wines, laying the foundation for what would become a renowned winemaking operation. Four years later, in 1984, MAWBY introduced its first Methode Champenoise sparkling wine, signaling a new chapter in the winery's history.

Despite early success with table wines, Larry and his team recognized a unique opportunity in the late 1990s to pivot towards sparkling wines. Embracing innovation and creativity, MAWBY unveiled its signature Sparkling Rosé, aptly named "Sex," captivating wine enthusiasts with its playful spirit.

In 2004, MAWBY further expanded its offerings with the introduction of a line of Cuve-Close Method sparkling wines, catering to a diverse range of palates and preferences. Today, MAWBY remains steadfast in its commitment to crafting exceptional sparkling wines, earning a reputation as a trailblazer in the Leelanau wine region and beyond.

Larry Mawby's journey from fruit grower to winemaker is a testament to the transformative power of passion and perseverance. Larry's legacy continues to sparkle, inspiring future generations to dream boldly and pursue their passion for wine making with unwavering dedication.

A Journey Through Old Mission Peninsula: History and Viticulture

In 1836, the Treaty of Washington earmarked a plot of land for local Native American tribes to establish a mission and schools. This site would later be known as Old Mission Peninsula. Reverend Peter Dougherty was tasked with founding the mission in 1838, laying the foundation for what would become Old Mission. Today, the Dougherty Mission House and the Old Mission Inn stand as historic landmarks, serving as testaments to the peninsula's rich heritage.

In 1852, the mission relocated across West Grand Traverse Bay to what is now Omena, Michigan, prompting the original settlement to be dubbed "Old Mission." The peninsula, stretching 19 miles northward from Traverse City ending at Old Mission Point., is home to a diverse landscape and 10 wineries.

Designated as an American Viticultural Area (AVA) in 1987, Old Mission Peninsula benefits from the moderating influence of Lake Michigan's surrounding bays. Sandy, well-drained soils necessitate irrigation but also mitigate severe winter damage. The peninsula's unique climate sees late springs, lingering falls, and milder summers compared to other parts of Michigan.

Despite its compact size—measuring just 19 miles long and three miles wide at its broadest point—Old Mission Peninsula AVA is a thriving viticultural region. With 19,200 acres, it stands as Michigan's smallest AVA. Pinot Noir leads as the most planted red wine grape, while Riesling dominates among white wine grapes.

Old Mission Peninsula Wineries:

Black Star Farms Old Mission, Brys Estate Vineyard & Winery, Mari Vineyards, Hawthorne Vineyards, Chateau Chantal Winery and Inn, Tabone Vineyards, Bowers Harbor Vineyards, Bonobo Winery, 2 Lads Winery, Chateau Grand Traverse

Complete winery directory of the Old Mission Peninsula: Wineries of the Old Mission Peninsula Wine Trail

Pioneers of Old Mission Peninsula Wine: Robert Begin and Ed O'Keefe

Cultivating Dreams: The Legacy of Ed O'Keefe and Chateau Grand Traverse

Chateau Grand Traverse Tasting Room - Old Mission Peninsula Wine Trail

In 1974, Ed O’Keefe embarked on a journey that would shape the landscape of the Michigan wine industry. While the focus in Northwest Michigan was predominantly on French-American hybrid grapes, O’Keefe dared to dream of European vinifera varieties. His passion for wine was cultivated during his extensive travels in Europe, igniting a desire to spearhead high-quality vinifera grape cultivation in Michigan.

Chateau Grand Traverse Vineyard - Old Mission Peninsula Wine Trail - *Photo Credit - Chateau Grand Traverse*

Determined to realize his vision, O’Keefe sought out the ideal location for his vineyards. Despite considering California and Germany, he found promise in the yet-undeveloped viticulture region of Northwest Michigan, particularly near his summer home in Williamsburg. While his contemporaries, Bernie Rink and Larry Mawby, focused on hybrids, O’Keefe set his sights on vinifera.

With the guidance of Dr. Helmut Becker, a renowned German viticulturist and coined as the Johnny “Appleseed of Riesling”, O’Keefe established a research vineyard on the Old Mission Peninsula. Recognizing the region's potential, they carefully selected southwest slopes for optimal grape cultivation. Becker noticed peach trees, with its delicate fruit, thriving in a particular area and made the connection to it’s similarities to Riesling and conditions needed. In 1975, O’Keefe planted 30 acres of Riesling and Chardonnay, defying skepticism and paving the way for vinifera grape production on a commercial scale in Northern Michigan.

In 1976, Chateau Grand Traverse made history as northern Michigan's first bonded winery, beginning the production of wines from vinifera grapes. The first commercial harvest in 1978 marked a milestone, proving the viability of O’Keefe's ambitious endeavor. Soon after, accolades began pouring in, with "Sweet Sharon," a 1978 Chardonnay, winning Best of Show Wine at the Michigan State Fair.

O’Keefe’s dedication to excellence extended beyond his winemaking prowess. In 1987, he lead the establishment of Old Mission Peninsula as an official American Viticultural Appellation (AVA), solidifying the region's status as a premier wine destination.

Over the years, Chateau Grand Traverse flourished under O’Keefe's leadership, evolving from producing 5,000 cases in 1980 to over 110,000 cases. His legacy lives on, inspiring future generations of winemakers to pursue their dreams and push the boundaries of possibility in Michigan's flourishing wine industry.

A Divine Journey: The Begin Family and Chateau Chantal

In the heart of the Old Mission Peninsula, amidst cherry orchards and vineyards, stands Chateau Chantal, a testament to the vision and determination of the Begin family. It was the second bonded winery on the Old Mission Peninsula Wine Trail.

View from the deck at Chateau Chantal Old Mission Peninsula Wine Trail

It all began when Robert Begin and his wife Nadine, with a background deeply rooted in service to the church, embarked on a new chapter of their lives. Leaving behind their roles as a Roman Catholic priest and a Felician Sister, they joined hands in marriage and set their sights on a different calling — winemaking.

Their journey took them to the shores of the Old Mission Peninsula, where they purchased a 65-acre cherry farm in 1983. Inspired by the allure of European winemaking and hospitality, they spent six transformative months in Alsace, immersing themselves in the art of cool climate viticulture.

Robert, Nadine and Marie Begin portrait hanging above the fireplace in the Chateau Chantal Tasting Room - Old Mission Peninsula Wine Trail

With unwavering dedication, the Begins planted their first vineyard in 1983, meticulously tending to Vinifera vines such as Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, and Pinot Noir. Surrounded by family and friends, they planted each vine by hand, laying the foundation for what would become Chateau Chantal.

In 1990, their dream bore fruit as the estate produced its first vintage of wine. The opening of Chateau Chantal as a winery and a three-room B&B in 1993 marked a significant milestone in their journey. Nadine, with her innate hospitality, assumed the role of host and chef, delighting guests with breakfasts prepared with love and care each morning.

Their daughter, Marie Chantal Dalese, inspired the name, Chateau Chantal. She grew up amidst the vineyards, embodying the values of hard work and perseverance instilled by her parents. Today, she leads Chateau Chantal as President & CEO, carrying forward the legacy of her family with grace and determination.

Nadine, with her culinary prowess, wrote her memoir, "Feed my Lambs, Feed my Sheep," sharing memories, recipes, and reflections on life's journey. Her book stands as a testament to the Begin family's enduring legacy and the rich historical marker of the experiences that shaped their lives.

As Chateau Chantal celebrated 30 years of hospitality and excellence in 2022, the spirit of the founders continues to guide the way. Their daughter Marie, along with alliance partners, stand united in their commitment to preserving and expanding the legacy of Chateau Chantal, ensuring that it remains an icon of wine and hospitality for generations to come.

Grapes by the Bay: Traverse City Wine Coast - Leelanau Peninsula and Old Mission Peninsula