Georgian Grape Varieties reshaping the Finger Lakes
Saperavi and Rkatsiteli
Updated June 16, 2024
Dr. Konstantin Frank is credited with introducing Saperavi and Rkatsiteli to the Finger Lakes
To truly understand Saperavi and Rkatsiteli in the Finger Lakes, one must look to the Republic of Georgia, the birthplace of wine production. These two grapes hold historical significance as the primary wine grapes in Georgia, a result of the Soviet influence that shaped the county into a two-grape region. Once again, Dr. Konstantin Frank’s influence on the Finger Lakes resonates strongly, stemming from his experience making wine in Russia and being credited with introducing both varieties to the Finger Lakes region.
Summary of the Republic of Georgia Wine Making History and Landscape
Georgia's Georgraphy: The Crossroads of Eastern Europe
Positioned on the eastern shores of the Black Sea, The Republic of Georgia is a crossroads where Europe, the Middle East, and Asia all meet. With Russia to the north, Turkey and Armenia to the south, Azerbaijan to the east, and the Black Sea to the west, this small, mountainous country has been influenced and ruled by many different cultures that have shaped it into the revitalized wine country it is today. The Repulic of Georgia is only about 27,000 square miles. To put that into an American perspective, it is just slightly bigger than the state of West Virginia.
The Ancient Art of Winemaking: The Birth of Wine Production
Topographic map of the Republic of Georgia
Image credit Philippe Rekacewicz, Emmanuelle Bournay, UNEP/GRID-Arendal - https://www.grida.no/resources/5341
Dating back to 6000 BC, winemaking in Georgia stretches over 8,000 years of history. Archaeological findings have material evidence to support the Georgia is the world’s oldest wine-producing country. To further solidify Georgia as the historic home of wine, many of the grapes in Europe and Asia today have Georgian origins, and the Western words for wine—vin, vino, wine—derive from the Georgian word ghvino.
The first Georgian wines were made and stored in egg-shaped clay vessels called qvevri. This winemaking vessel remains the focal point of traditional winemaking in Georgia. The Georgians are very proud of their winemaking traditions, and the qvevri is very much a part of that. Despite past influences that stifled the use for many years, it remains a cornerstone in the process today.
Kakheti: Jewel of Georgian Viticulture
Georgia’s Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) Map
Today, Georgia has nearly 50,000 hectares of grapes, with plantings consisting of 75% white grape varieties and 25% red grape varieties. The Kakheti region in eastern Georgia is the largest wine region in Georgia and most of the county’s vines are planted here. Although Kakheti has about 80 different grape varieties, the two most prominent are Rkatsiteli (white) and Saperavi (red), influenced by the Russian Soviet rule, where there was a higher focus on production versus quality winemaking.
Georgia's Terroir: A Balance of Topography, Climate, and Soil
Georgia's terroir is exceptionally diverse, due to its varied topography, climate, and soil composition. The climate exhibits significant variability based on geographical features, providing an optimal environment for grape cultivation. With a range of elevations, Georgia benefits from the Caucasus Mountains, which act as a protective barrier against cold northern air while allowing the warm, moist air from the Black Sea to influence viticulture in the western regions. This shielding from extreme temperature fluctuations safeguards the vines from both intense sunlight and freezing temperatures.
The climate across Georgia varies considerably, spanning from subtropical to desert-like conditions, dependent upon the specific region. The fertile lands of the Caucasus Mountains have numerous rivers and streams, channeling mineral-rich waters into the valleys below. These waters contribute distinct flavors to the wines.
The geological landscape has an impressive array of 49 mineral-rich soil types, prominently featuring sedimentary compositions characterized by limestone and calcareous rocks. Additionally, the geology and soil structures bear the imprint of earthquake-prone fault lines that crisscross the Caucasus Mountains. Finally, the presence of extinct volcanoes and the ancient submersion of land under oceanic waters millions of years ago further enhance the unique terroir of Georgia.
Where to stay in Finger Lakes Wine County
Soviet Era: A Period of Change and Constraint
The history and location of Georgia have profoundly influenced its wine production over the years. The region has experienced numerous wars and shifts in governance, all of which have left their mark on the wine industry. Despite enduring centuries of upheaval, winemaking remained a cherished tradition for Georgians, one they steadfastly defended.
In more recent history, Russian rule under the Soviet regime brought about a significant transformation in winemaking practices. With a focus on productivity, the implementation of the "Five Year Plan" prioritized quantity over quality. This strategic shift led to a reduction in the diversity of grape varieties cultivated in Georgia, with only a select few, such as Saperavi and Rkatsiteli, being deemed most suitable for mass production. Consequently, Georgia earned the reputation of being a two-grape country.
Saperavi and Rkatsiteli, known for their adaptability to various conditions, including cooler climates, became the cornerstone of Georgian winemaking during this period. Meanwhile, traditional winemaking methods, such as the use of qvevris, fell out of favor due to their perceived labor-intensiveness, further impacting the wine production process. By the 1970s, the quality of Georgian wine had reached an all-time low, reflecting the challenges faced by the industry during this period.
Revival of Tradition: Modern Trends and Return to Roots
After the fall of the Soviet Union, more unrest from civil war struck the country, and Western influences and investors were introduced to the Georgian wine production markets. They advocated for more modern techniques in the process. In the early 2000s, however, there began to be a consumer trend back to traditional methods of organic, natural, full-flavored, skin-contact wines, prompting a group of Georgian winemakers to unite and capitalize on this trend. This initiative helped revive older styles and techniques, utilizing qvevris for winemaking. They started to achieve commercial success with these wines in the United States, Denmark, Japan, and the United Kingdom. Today, the current state of Georgian wines is vibrant and expanding, as they leverage their traditional winemaking roots, and Georgia is starting to reintroduce many of the forgotten grape varieties that were stifled during the Soviet era.
If you would like to further study Wines of Georgia these two references are a great place to start:
Wines of Georgia - Website completely dedicated to the Wines of Georgia and offers a certification course
Wine with Jimmy - A FREE 17 part education series on YouTube dedicated to the Wines of Georgia
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New York Wine Travel Guide
SAPERAVI – Emerging as THE RED WINE of the Finger LAkes Region
McGregor Vineyard on Keuka Lake offers both Saperavi and Rkatsiteli
Saperavi's rapid rise in popularity within the Finger Lakes is a testament to its unique and captivating attributes. A few years ago, only a handful of wineries featured Saperavi, but today, numerous growers are embracing this grape, recognizing its potential for the future.
Originating from Georgia, Saperavi stands out with its teinturier nature, meaning it has both red skin and flesh, a rarity in the grape world. Most grape varieties used in winemaking, including red grapes, typically have white flesh. This distinctive quality imparts a remarkable color spectrum, ranging from dark red to black. Notable for its full-bodied character, elevated tannins, and high acidity, Saperavi promises aging capabilities, unveiling complexity and depth over time.
Dr. Konstantin Frank with an early Finger Lakes Saperavi planting in 1978
Photo Credit Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery
The name Saperavi means “the place of color” and is given for the rich, dark color of the wine. The flavor profile is a mix of dark fruits like blackberry, black cherry, and plum, complemented by nuanced notes of spices, herbs, violet, smoke, leather, licorice, chocolate, coffee, and tobacco. This robust red wine pairs excellently with hearty dishes.
It benefits from aging in oak and bottle aging because of its high level of tannin and acidity. Age helps to gain complexity. In cooler climates, it can become a more elegant version with a mix of red and dark fruit.
Saperavi is known for its winter hardiness and drought tolerance. Its resilience to frost and cold temperatures, along with its disease resistance and mildew-mitigating loose clusters, make it an ideal fit for the Finger Lakes region. As a late-ripening grape, it can produce large volumes while still retaining its characteristic qualities. Saperavi is renowned for taking on the characteristics of its terroir and expressing the unique qualities of the region in which it is grown.
To learn more about the Finger Lakes terror that makes it an ideal place for growing Saperavi read Journey into Finger Lakes Terroir: The Impact oF Three Lakes
Dr. Konstantin Frank is credited with introducing Saperavi to the Finger Lakes region in the 1960s adding plantings to his Keuka Lake vineyard. Today, the majority of their Saperavi grapes are sourced from their site on the southeast side of Seneca Lake, situated in the renowned "Banana Belt" area. The Seneca Lake vineyards were initially planted in 2010 and 2016, using original cuttings from Dr. Konstantin's initial Keuka Lake Vineyard plantings. This special area of Seneca Lake experiences warmer temperatures compared to the Keuka Lake Vineyard site, resulting in riper fruit flavors. Additionally, as a tribute, Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery adds a small portion of Saperavi from Dr. Konstantin's original plantings at their Keuka Lake vineyard to their current Saperavi vintages. The proactive approach of Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery, including hosting an annual Saperavi Festival, showcases the winery’s commitment to advancing this grape's appreciation and cultivation in the Finger Lakes.
To learn more about the History of the Finger Lakes Wine Region and Dr. Franks impact read The History of the Finger Lakes Wine Country
McGregor Vineyard, on Keuka Lake, was also an early adopter of Saperavi, initially marketing it as "Black Russian Red." Visiting the vineyard to sample this unique wine, which was relatively unknown to many, became a popular destination. In recent years, McGregor Vineyard has rebranded it simply as "Saperavi”, and they can be credited as one of the wineries that contributed to putting Saperavi on the map in this region.
Saperavi Grapes in the Vineyard at McGregor Vineyard - Keuka Lake
Like the Frank family, the McGregor family is at the forefront of cultivating vinifera wine grapes in the Finger Lakes. In the 1970s, they sought out to find red grape varieties suitable for the region's cool climate conditions. After thorough research and experimentation, they discovered Saperavi, a grape with great potential. McGregor Vineyard began planting these vines in the spring of 1980.
Deeply passionate about Saperavi, McGregor Vineyard regularly hosts educational events like "Saperavi Stories, History, and Wine," led by John McGregor and organized by a group called Saperica. Saperica's mission is to promote Saperavi and other Georgian grape varieties, food and culture, throughout the United States. During these events, guests can sample McGregor Saperavi wines alongside Georgian Saperavi wines crafted in various styles. The tasting experience is enhanced with small plates of Georgian cuisine and engaging stories about Georgian food and wine traditions, as well as John's anecdotes about McGregor Vineyard's journey in establishing Saperavi's presence in the Finger Lakes.
Often likened to the Cabernet Sauvignon of the Finger Lakes, Saperavi has found a unique expression in the region. Standing Stone Winery has even crafted a Rosé from Saperavi, which has become a notable favorite among wine aficionados. With the Finger Lakes leading Saperavi production in the U.S., this grape is swiftly gaining the status of the next "cult wine” by wine enthusiasts. A tasting experience during your visit to the Finger Lakes is highly recommended to fully appreciate the allure of Saperavi.
To learn more about the different Finger Lakes wine styles, including Finger Lakes Rosé Wine read Finger Lakes Hybrid Innovation and Wine Making Diversity
Featured Finger Lakes AccomModations
Rkatsiteli - finding elegance in the cool climate of the finger lakes
Rkatsiteli Grapes from McGregor Vineyard
Also originating from Georgia, and finding its way to the Finger Lakes region, is the white grape Rkatsiteli. Rkatsiteli dates back to 3000 B.C., making it one of the oldest known grape varieties in the world. Predominantly grown in the eastern part of Georgia, particularly in the Kakheti area, it constitutes 50% of all Georgian wine plantings. The name "Rkatsiteli" translates to "Red Stem," with "Rka" meaning stem and "Tsitteli" meaning red, referring to the grape's distinctive red stem.
In Georgia, Rkatsiteli is crafted into various styles, but in the Finger Lakes, it is commonly produced in the European style as a dry white table wine. It buds late and ripens late, making it more resistant to frost and making it easy to grow, like its red counterpart, Saperavi. Its robust resistance to cold winters and its balanced sugars and acids contribute to its success. Because of these factors, it thrives in diverse terroirs and soil types.
Dr. Konstantin Frank pioneered the planting of Rkatsiteli in the Finger Lakes during the 1950s. Today, they cultivate approximately 10 acres of Rkatsiteli at the Keuka Lake Estate Vineyard. Situated on the east-facing slopes, the vineyard spans elevations ranging from 980 ft to 1200 ft and occupies the deepest parts of Keuka Lake. The vineyard has shallow, silt loam soil with a significant shale content, imparting minerality and acidity to the grapes.
McGregor Vineyard first planted Rkatsiteli in their vineyard in 1980. They normally produce less than 100 cases a year and state that it is high acid, light in body, incredibly complex and high quality.
Rkatsiteli wines from the Finger Lakes region exhibit an elegant, aromatic profile with green apple, peach, pineapple or honeydew complemented by undertones of ginger, white pepper, and grass. They are notably acidic yet well-balanced, offering a full flavor profile and good body. They are an excellent alternative for Sauvignon Blanc enthusiasts.
The Finger Lakes Annual Saperai Festival
Amazing views of Keuka Lake from Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery at the 2024 Saperavi Festival
Dr. Konstantin Frank Wine at the 2024 Saperavi Festival
The Finger Lakes Saperavi Festival, an annual celebration now in its third year, took place in June 2024 at the historic Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery. This event, organized by Saperica Inc., a non-profit dedicated to promoting Georgian wine and culture in the United States, seeks to highlight the unique qualities of Saperavi and other Georgian grape varieties. Saperica's mission includes promoting Georgian gastronomy and culture in the Finger Lakes region and across the U.S. through educational seminars and exchange programs for wine and culinary enthusiasts and professionals. The festival is supported by the National Wine Agency of Georgia and the Wines of Georgia campaign.
Co-hosted by Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery, Chama Mama restaurant, and the National Wine Agency of Georgia, the festival was set against the scenic backdrop of the winery's vineyards and beautiful Keuka Lake. Upon arrival, attendees were welcomed with a tasting glass and a detailed program guide. Inside the event tents, there were two main sections: the American side and the Georgian side. The American section featured seven Finger Lakes wineries, a winery from Westport, Massachusetts, and one from Zillah, Washington. The Georgian side showcased various importers and distributors of Georgian wines.
Airy Acrea Vineyards Rkatsiteli at the 2024 Saperavi Festival
The festival presented an extensive array of wines, including Saperavi and Rkatsiteli, offered in numerous styles. These ranged from orange wines (skin-contact white wines) to traditional Georgian-style qvevri-aged wines, as well as those aged in stainless steel and oak barrels. Additionally, sparkling wines, rosés, and a port-style dessert wine were available for tasting. This diverse selection allowed attendees to explore the influence of different winemaking techniques and styles side by side.
Throughout the day, several educational seminars were conducted, enhancing the learning experience for participants. One notable seminar focused on wine and cheese pairing, providing insights into the complementary flavors and textures of different combinations.
The festival concluded with a traditional Georgian Supra Wine Dinner, elegantly set at a long table beside the vineyard. Each table setting was adorned with the phrase, "A Guest is a Gift from God," paying homage to the renowned hospitality of the Georgian people. Catered by Chama Mama, a renowned Georgian restaurant from New York City, the dinner showcased a lavish meal perfectly paired with Saperavi wine. Guests savored authentic Georgian dishes, an ample selection of wines, heartfelt hospitality, and traditional toasts, crafting a memorable and culturally immersive dining experience.
Georgian Supra Wine Dinner at the 2024 Saperavi Festival
Georgian Supra Wine Dinner at the 2024 Saperavi Festival
Due to its continued success and growing popularity, the Finger Lakes Saperavi Festival is poised to become a longstanding tradition, celebrating Georgian wine and culture for many years to come.
Follow these pages to stay current on the emerging Saperavi culture in the Finger Lakes Region:
Finger Lakes Self-Guided Wine Tours
Where to Find Finger Lakes Saperavi and Rkatsiteli
Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery and McGregor Vineyard, provides a unique opportunity to savor both Saperavi and Rkatsiteli, offering a delightful exploration of Georgian-inspired winemaking in the Finger Lakes.
Saperavi Profile:
Scout Vineyards Rosé of Saperavi - Seneca Lake
Fruit: Blackberry, black cherry, and plum
Spice: Licorice
Oak: Smoke, chocolate, coffee
Floral: Violet
Tertiary: Leather, tobacco
Where to try Saperavi in the Finger Lakes:
Damiani Wine Cellars Saperavi 2019
Shalestone Vineyards - Seneca Lake
Standing Stone Vineyards - Seneca Lake
Damiani Wine Cellars - Seneca Lake
Idol Ridge Winery - Seneca Lake
Scout Vineyards - Seneca Lake
Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery - Keuka Lake
McGregor Vineyard - Keuka Lake
Divided Sky - Keuka Lake
Azure Hill Winery - Keuka Lake
Weis Vineyards - Keuka Lake
Keuka Spring Vineyards - Keuka Lake
Knapp Winery - Cayuga Lake
Airy Acres Winery - Cayuga Lake
Montezuma Winery – Cayuga Lake
Bet the Farm - Cayuga Lake
Rkatsiteli Profile:
Fruit: Green apple, peach, quince, pineapple, honeydew
Spice: Ginger, white pepper
Herbaceous: Grass
Where to try Rkatsiteli in the Finger Lakes:
Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery - Keuka Lake
McGregor Vineyard - Keuka Lake
Airy Acres Winery - Cayuga Lake
