The Impact of Three Lakes

Understanding Terroir and Microclimates

The Finger Lakes is a perfect balance of many factors that make it an ideal location for grape cultivation. The region provides the key elements for growing quality grapes: mineral rich soils, good drainage and a moderate climate. The region also offers diversity which means that many different types of grape varieties and wine styles can be produced in the area. It is up the grape growers and the wine makers to evaluate each vineyard site to determine what style will best serve the specific terroir.

Terroir, a French term, captures the diverse natural environmental factors that influence a wine's character. This encompasses the land's topography, soil composition, and overall climate, all contributing to the distinct flavors of wines. Additionally, terroir extends to smaller areas known as microclimates, referring to specific climate conditions within a smaller area of a wine region. These microclimates can narrow down to individual vineyards or even specific rows of vines within a vineyard.

Mineral rich soils: Diverse soil compositions in the Finger Lakes region inspire winemakers to experiment with various grape varieties from vitis vinifera, Hybrids and Native. Lower-elevation lakes, Seneca and Cayuga, feature chalky, high-lime soil, while the higher-altitude lake, Keuka have more acidic soil, influencing the types of grapes cultivated.

Hillsides and Moderate Temperatures: The steep hillsides and deep lakes not only provide ample drainage to vineyard sites but also create a moderating effect on temperatures. This dynamic interplay regulates airflow, minimizing humidity, preventing mildews, and ensuring optimal grape health in the cooler climate.

2020 Finger Lakes Wine: A Year of Excellence

The 2020 Finger Lakes vintage emerges as a flagship year, hailed by industry experts as possibly the greatest in living memory. It was a drought year, experiencing very little rainfall but proved to be instrumental in crafting fresh, lively whites and remarkable reds. Notably, the reds of 2020 stand as a benchmark for the region, boasting deep color, concentration, and captivating aromatics. The drought conditions during the year, while impacting yields with smaller berries due to heat stress, proved beneficial by lowering humidity and reducing disease pressures in the vineyards. Though some wineries faced challenges with smaller grape sizes affecting production, the overall consensus is that the 2020 vintage, despite reduced yields, produced wines of excellent quality, marked by concentrated fruit and a harmonious balance between acidity and sweetness. During wine tastings, if you come across any of the 2020 vintages, especially the red, give it a try.

Best Finger Lakes Vintages

The Finger Lakes region has produced notable wines in various years, but some best Finger Lakes vintage years include:

2012: Considered an exceptional year with favorable weather conditions, resulting in well-balanced and expressive wine
2014: Another strong vintage known for producing high-quality wines, particularly Rieslings, with good acidity and flavor.
2016: A vintage characterized by a warm and dry growing season, contributing to the production of vibrant and well-structured wines.
2017: Despite some challenges, including a late frost, this year produced wines with complexity and character, especially in the Riesling category.
2020: The 2020 vintage is one of the best in recent history, with excellent ripeness, balance, and freshness in both red and white wines.

* Summary of the recent vintage reports from the Finger Lakes Wine Alliance

Seneca Lake: Microclimates at Play

Seneca Lake Overview: Seneca Lake, the biggest among the Finger Lakes, showcases special microclimates shaped by its depth, size and lower elevation. Thanks to the lake's consistent warmth, even in winter, it helps produce ripe fruit, leading to some of the best wines in the region. The deep waters of Seneca Lake, resistant to freezing, play a vital role in regulating temperatures. By holding and gradually releasing heat, the lake prevents drastic temperature swings, creating an ideal setting for growing grapes.

Atwater Vineyard’s Seneca Lake Banana Belt Vineyard overlooking Seneca Lake

Banana Belt Microclimate: The Seneca Lake "Banana Belt" on the southeastern shores of Seneca Lake, spanning from about Watkins Glen to Valois. It’s characterized by warmer temperatures, especially near the lake, steep hills and abundant sunlight, enjoys an extended growing season. This specific microclimate boosts the ripening of grapes, making it an ideal spot for nurturing red grape varieties such as Syrah, Pinot Noir, and Merlot. Renowned for hosting some of the finest vineyard locations in the entire Finger Lakes region, for wineries like Damiani Wine Cellars, Shalestone Vineyards, and Leidenfrost Vineyards, this area is celebrated for its optimal grape-growing conditions.

Sawmill Creek Vineyards: Situated within the Seneca Lake Banana Belt region of the Finger Lakes, Sawmill Creek Vineyards stands as one of the most renowned vineyard sites. Owned and operated by Eric Hazlitt, a sixth-generation Finger Lakes wine grape grower whose family farm dates back to 1852, the vineyard supplies grapes to over two dozen wineries. Among its clients are names such as Barnstormer Winery, Billsboro Winery, JR Dill Winery, Damiani Wine Cellars, Hector Wine Company, Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery, and Red Newt Cellars.

Sawmill Creek Vineyards cultivates a diverse range of grape varieties, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Lemberger, Syrah, Merlot, Riesling, Chardonnay, Vidal Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewurztraminer, Albarino, Pinot Blanc, and Pinot Gris. The vineyard's dedication to quality is reflected in the numerous award-winning wines it produces. Notably, Billsboro Winery's 2013 Syrah, sourced from Sawmill Creek Vineyards, claimed the prestigious Governor's Cup at The New York Wine Classic.

Wines carrying the Sawmill Creek label are synonymous with exceptional quality, making them a must-try for wine enthusiasts exploring the Finger Lakes region. Additionally, Sawmill Creek Vineyards offers a unique opportunity for visitors to engage with its heritage by opening its doors to the public each July for cherry-picking in their orchards.

Cayuga Lake: A Temperate Haven

Cayuga Lake Overview: Cayuga Lake shares a lot of similarities to Seneca Lake. It is the second-largest Finger Lake, rarely freezes due to its depth. It sits at a lower elevation than the surrounding lakes. Its temperate climate, moderated by the lake, provides an ideal environment for winemaking. The vineyards planted on steep slopes facilitate air patterns, creating a microclimate that benefits grape cultivation.

Notable East Cayuga Lake Vineyard Sites: East side of Cayuga Lake, Sheldrake Point's Estate Vineyard and Patrician Verona Vineyard

Sheldrake Point's Estate vineyard commenced its plantings in 1997 and now covers 55 acres of vines, cultivating 10 grape varieties on-site, including Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Muscat Ottonel, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Gamay, Merlot, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Positioned on the west side of Cayuga Lake between two deep gorges, the vineyards slope eastward towards the lake's edge, reaching an upper elevation of 578 feet. Similar to Seneca Lake, the depth of Cayuga Lake moderates the vineyard's temperatures, providing benefits such as preventing early bud break and early fall frost. The soils of the Sheldrake Point Vineyard comprise a blend of gravelly loam, glacial clay, shale, limestone, and slate.

Patrician Verona Vineyard, part of Hosmer Winery, and has supplied Riesling and Pinot Noir to Heart and Hands Wine Company. Established in 1972, it's one of Cayuga Lake's oldest vineyard sites, with nearly 70 acres of vines on its eastern-facing slopes. Recognized for sustainable viticulture, it received a National Conservation Stewardship Award for its commitment to conservation. Its North to South row layout optimizes sunlight exposure, while the lake's depth moderates temperatures. With silt loam and shale soil, it nurtures various grapes including; Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Lemberger, and several other native and hybrid varieties. Rieslings from this site feature tropical and citrusy aromatics, while Pinot Noirs offer earthy flavors.

Keuka Lake: Elegance in Coolness

Dr. Konstantin Frank Keuka Lake Vineyard - *Photo by Stu Gallagher*

Keuka Lake Overview: The vineyards on the elevated and steep slopes surrounding Keuka Lake contribute to the region's cooler climate. Keuka Lake is smaller and shallower compared to Seneca and Cayuga Lakes. During extremely cold winters, Keuka Lake may even freeze over. The higher elevation of both the lake and vineyards further contributes to this cooler environment. Despite being cooler compared to other lakes, Keuka Lake provides enough winter moderation. However, the elevated vineyards are more prone to earlier fall frosts than the regions around larger lakes. This unique setting fosters the production of wines with a distinctive mineral style and heightened acidity.

Old Vines of Dr. Konstantin Frank Winery: Established in 1958 on the steep slopes of Keuka Lake's western side, Dr. Konstantin Frank's vineyard is home to some of the oldest vines in the Finger Lakes, consistently yielding high-quality, award-winning wines. Old vines offer several winemaking advantages, including deeper root systems that access more nutrients, leading to complex flavors. Mature vines adapt to different climates, ensuring consistent quality, and produce smaller, structured berries ideal for high-quality wines, prioritizing quality over quantity.

Spanning 70 acres, the Keuka Lake vineyard cultivates 11 grape varieties, with some vines dating back to the late 1950s and early 1960s. Notably, Riesling, the oldest variety planted in 1958, stands out among others like Chardonnay, Rkatsiteli, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Amur.

Situated on east-facing slopes with elevations ranging from 950 ft to 1200 ft and shallow silt loam and shale soils, the vineyards offer unique terroir conditions. Despite Keuka Lake's smaller and shallower nature compared to Seneca Lake and Cayuga Lake, occasional freezing and cooler overall climates prevail. These conditions, coupled with the soil composition, result in high-acid wines with notable minerality. Additionally, the vineyard's terroir is ideal for crafting traditional method sparkling wines, utilizing Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier grapes grown on-site.

The Finger Lakes region provides an ideal environment for grape cultivation, blending mineral-rich soils and a moderate climate. This diversity allows for the cultivation of various grape varieties and wine styles. Understanding terroir and microclimates becomes crucial, with unique features like Seneca Lake's microclimates, the "Banana Belt," and Keuka Lake's cooler climate. Each lake contributes distinct nuances, offering winemakers many factors to craft wines that celebrate the region's terroir in each vintage and varietal.

Journey into Finger Lakes Terroir